July 30, 2009

05 STi GT30R Tune

This 05 STi has a fair amount of work done and is a pretty quick car. Some of the highlights are listed below.

GT30R .82 turbo
100% H2O Injection
Forged Weisco Pistons
Modified STi Crank
New Bearings
816cc Modified Injectors
255lph Walboro Fuel Pump
Full Exhaust
ACT Clutch and Flywheel
Perrin Fuel Rails
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tuned with Ecutek and UTEC management
Tune was with unleaded 100 octane fuel per request of the customer2005-sti-perrin-gt30r

July 28, 2009

08 Scion tC (AT) - Part 2

This ’08 Scion tC was previously in our shop when the customer had us switch out his TRD supercharger setup to a Dezod turbo kit. This time around the owner brought the vehicle back for some additional power upgrades as well as some upgrades to his automatic transmission.

After the turbo kit was installed the owner noticed the car would get hung up in first and second gear during wide-open pulls. Having already installed a B&M transmission cooler, he decided the next step was to upgrade the valve body. By upgrading to an IPT valve body, the transmission now shifts quicker, more precise and no longer gets hung up in gear.

To try and extract more power from his turbo kit, the owner upgraded from his log style manifold to an equal length turbo manifold. The equal length manifold has better flow characteristics allowing the turbo to spool faster.

With the installation of the new manifold, we had to fabricate new intercooler pipes since the turbo was relocated. Since we had to fabricate new intercooler pipes we switched the car over to a blow-thru MAF sensor. The blow-thru MAF allowed us to put the sensor behind the blow off valve on the cold side of his intercooler piping. The benefit of this setup is that we did not need to run piping from the air filter onto the inlet of the turbo. We were able to mount the filter directly on the turbo inlet, which saves room in this cars cramped engine bay, and in this case, the setup also ended up saving our customer some money since it cut down on some of the fabrication time and components. However, we did fabricate a inlet pipe for his turbo, just so we could try and get the filter away from the hot ambient air next to the manifold. He does always have the option to just stick a filter on it though.

After all the work was finished, the car was put back on the dyno for tuning where it put down 258 whp and 235 ft. lbs.

The mods proved to make a really fun and enjoyable street car, that can also put down some decent numbers at the track.

Not one to be satisfied, our customer is already thinking of future modifications, including a fully built engine and trans along with a GT3076R! We’ll keep you posted…

Here are the modifications that were done this time around:

Turbo Toyotas Equal Length Manifold
Turbo Toyotas Slim Radiator Fans
Verocious Custom Aluminum Intercooler Piping
Blow-Thru MAF
Verocious Custom 3” downpipe and 3” V-band exhaust
Verocious Custom Wastegate Dump Tube
Custom Vibrant Oil Catch Can Setup
Tial Q 50mm Blow off Valve
IPT Valve Body Upgrade
Tuned by Verocious

July 24, 2009

Clutch Break in Procedure

After a new clutch has been installed, you should make sure you take the time to properly break it in. Whether you installed a factory replacement or an upgraded clutch, by taking the time to do a proper break in you will maximize its life span, and performance characteristics.

At Verocious, we recommend a 500-mile minimum break in period. During these first 500 miles you should try not to rev the engine above 4500 rpm’s. This will ensure that your clutch is heated up slowly. During the break in period do not perform any hard drag race style launches or put your vehicle on a dyno for baselines or for tuning. Also, do not boost the car (if applicable) above 12 psi.

In order for the clutch to be broken in properly you will need to use it as much as possible. Driving on the highway in top gear for 500 miles will not break in your new clutch. Ideally, the best place to break in your new clutch is driving around town, or on roads where there is stop and go traffic. These driving situations will allow the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch to mate nicely because of the continued use.

Depending on your driving habits and routines you will need to adjust your break in time accordingly. For example, if you drive your car everyday to commute to work, and there is relatively little shifting involved, your new clutch may need longer than 500 miles to fully break in. Opposite of that, if you drive in heavy stop and go traffic everyday, your clutch will most likely be broken in after the 500 mile period.

July 22, 2009

Stock PCV System vs. PCV System w/ Air Oil Separator

This 07 STi came into the shop down on power and knock prone. After some diagnosis we discovered the intercooler had quite a bit of oil inside of it. Finding a large amount of oil in the intercooler was a pretty good indicator that oil was most likely making its way into the combustion chambers. When oil gets on top of the pistons in an engine it will hinder combustion efficiency, causing knock, which is very damaging to the engine. The oil gets there by way of the PCV system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation System), which carries a mixture of air and oil vapors.

By installing an oil separator, or a catch can, the lines from the PCV system are run into and out of a tank or can that usually contains a baffle inside. When the air and oil mixture hits the baffle the oil is separated from the mixture. The difference between the oil separator and the catch can is that an air oil separator drains back to the oil pan. A catch can, just as the name describes, acts as a can that collects the oil, meaning it will periodically need to be emptied.

The dyno chart below illustrates how much power can be gained with the installation of a high quality air oil separator or catch can when there is an excessive amount of oil in the PCV system.

Run 12 is the car after the stage 2 tune was finished. Run 1 is the same exact tune as run 12 except the oil has been cleaned out of the intercooler and a Crawford Air Oil Separator was installed. In this case the owner picked up 26.5 hp and 8 ft. lbs torque at the wheels.stock_vs_oil_sep

July 20, 2009

05 Legacy GT- Stage 2

Here we have a typical stage 2 Legacy GT. The modifications on this car include a COBB downpipe with a cat and the neckdown removed, an SPT intake, the car was tuned with a COBB AccessPORT, tuned at 16.5 psi.

One of the questions we are often asked is if it is worth getting your car Pro Tuned or if the Off-the-Shelf maps provided by COBB will get you the same power.

COBB’s base maps are a nice improvement over stock, however one of the limitations of the base maps is that they have to be compliant for all 50 states, all the various fuel formulations found through out the country, etc. Basically what this means is that COBB’s base maps, although they do provide power levels above the stock output of your car leave something on the table.

To try and show what kind of power is left on the table, on this dyno chart we are showing a comparison between a Verocious Pro Tune, and a COBB base map. The black run is the Verocious Pro Tune, and the red run is the COBB base map that comes with the AccessPORT. Andy made more than 25 whp and 30 ft. lbs. over the COBB base map with this car.vms_protune-vs-cobb-stgii

July 17, 2009

2008 STi Tune - Stage 2

Here we had commonly set up “stage 2″ 2008 STi on the dyno. Modifications include a catted turbo-back exhaust, short ram intake, Walboro fuel pump, and it was tuned with Cobb Accessport V2 by our tuner Andy.stage-2-2008-sti