February 17, 2010
This is a full 3″ 304 stainless steel exhaust we developed for the 08+ STi. The system starts with a modified COBB downpipe. Some of the highlights of the system include full v-band connections rather than traditional 2 or 3-bolt flanges. The v-bands allow for easy connect/disconnect of the exhaust components. In between the downpipe and mid-pipe there is a high flow metal core catalytic converter than can be swapped with a race/test pipe for trips to the track. The muffler features a centered inlet and exits into quad tips.
We tested a bone stock 08 STi on our AWD DynoJet, then installed our exhaust and tested it again. Simply installing our exhaust yielded an increase of 30whp and 2 ft. lbs. There was no tuning done to obtain these results, it was simply unbolt the stock exhaust, and install our exhaust.
February 5, 2010
We have wrapped many headers and other exhaust components in the shop and wanted to share with you what feel are some of the best practices and techniques we have learned through experience. If your not sure how much wrap you need for your project, we have a chart you can reference here.
For this installation we are wrapping a Subaru STI manifold and upipe with Heatshield’s Inferno Wrap.
Before you begin wrapping your header you may want to gather a few very basic tools to help make the job as easy as possible. I’d recommend grabbing the following:
1. a bucket
2. Safety Glasses, Dust Mask, & Gloves
3. Long Sleeves
4. Thermal Ties, Stainless Steel Wire, or Hose Clamps
5. Side Cutters and/or Wire Twisting Pliers
6. Sharp Heavy Duty Scissors or Tin Snips
Step 1:
Put on your safety gear and remove the wrap from the packaging and submerge it in water in a bucket. By soaking the wrap you will help minimize the amount of fiberglass fibers. Just as an FYI, Heatshield does not recommend soaking their “Colored Wraps” however, all of their other wrap products can be soaked.
You may need to loosen the spool of wrap in order to have it saturate thoroughly. Don’t worry if it comes unraveled, you will most likely find yourself unraveling it anyway to make installation easier. You’ll probably find the wrap needs to soak for 15-20 minutes to become thoroughly saturated.
Step 2:
While your wrap is soaking, grab the parts you are going to be working with as well as the remaining tools you need. At this point, we have found securing the parts to a workbench definitely helps to make the wrapping process easier and the end result cleaner looking in appearance. Securing the part will allow you some leverage to pull the wrap as tight as possible, without having to fight against a part that is moving around. You’ll have to decide what securing method will work best for you, in our shop we have holes drilled through a metal fab table so we can bolt the header flange directly to the table surface. Using a few c-clamps or vise clamps would probably get the job done also.
Step 3:
Once your part is secured, pull the wrap out of the water. You may choose to work with the wrap as one continuous strand, or if you have calculated how much wrap you will need for various sections now would be the time to cut the wrap into the lengths needed. One word of caution if you pre-cut your wrap. Always hedge on the side of caution so you don’t come up short. If you think you need 10 feet, you may want to cut yourself a 15 foot piece of wrap to work with so you have some “play” room.
Now that you are ready to begin, you’ll want to start the wrapping at the point of the part closest to the motor. We generally also choose the runner or primary that we think will be the most difficult to reach to start with. Our reason for this is as you begin the wrapping process, small spaces only get smaller, so by starting with the hardest to reach runner or area, you will save yourself and your fingers some frustration down the road.
Begin by folding the end of the wrap over on itself. This will help prevent the edge from fraying. Next, make your first wrap. Once you see how your first wrap is going to fit we suggest running a piece of wire through the middle of the wrap and securing it in position. Note that this single tie will not be enough to keep the wrap from spinning as you try and pull it snug, you will need to make a few additional wraps before you reach that point. By securing the wrap like this you are keeping the first wrap against the flange and also making sure the piece that is folded on itself stays put and doesn’t somehow come undone. (See photo below)
Step 4:
Continue wrapping the runner using a 1/4″ overlap with each pass, being sure to pull each wrap as tight as you can. Secure it with Thermal Ties, wire or hose clamps as you go. Once you have finished the first runner we recommend going back to finalize any securing it may need. We always pay extra attention to the ends, since if the wrap is going to work itself loose chances are that’s where it would start. Having the wrap secured every 4 inches or so will be more than sufficient.
Step 5:
Continue the same process for each additional runner/primary. If you reach a point where the runners are to close together to wrap individually you can wrap them together. Once you are finished wrapping the component, double check that you have the wrap adequately secured.
Step 6:
At this point we hang our pieces to dry overnight. If you are in a rush you can set a fan up in front of them to help expedite the drying process. Once the pieces are dry you can reinstall them on your vehicle.
Step 7:
After your wrapped parts are installed they will need to cure. Park your vehicle outside and let it idle for awhile. You’ll notice the wrapped components smoking, and you will smell the fiberglass. This is normal, and it will stop once the wrap is cured. Once the smoking seems to have subsided you can take your vehicle out for a ride. You may still see some smoke if your stopped at a light, but after the wrap heat cycles a few times this will stop.
That’s about all there is to it. This is not a difficult job, so don’t be afraid to tackle it. The most important thing is patience. You want to make sure you take your time, and install the wrap as snug as possible.
October 16, 2009
We had a customer stop in this week looking to test the power difference between running the exhaust on his Viper GTS with and without resonators. Unlike the exhaust resonators we sell which are a straight through design, this customer had purchased resonators which featured a design I had never seen before. I’m not sure what brand they were, so I’ll try and describe them the best I can. The exhaust on this car is 3″, which the resonators were designed for. However, when you looked into the resonator you could see they were straight through, but the inner straight through tube was definitely smaller than 3″, unfortunately I did not have a chance to measure it, but it looked significantly smaller than 3″, perhaps 2.5″? Surrounding this inner tube is what can only be described as an auger, a metal corkscrew spiral. According to our customer, the design splits the airflow with half the exhaust stream passing through the inner straight through tube, and the other half passes through the auger section. I can attest to the fact that these resonators did seem to tone down the exhaust when installed, unfortunately they also robbed quite a bit of power. After seeing the results our customer decided he is going to run straight through resonators which should help keep the exhaust tone in check, without sacrificing power. This Viper is stock with the exception of a full aftermarket exhaust, including headers.
September 1, 2009
The owner of this xB has JDM fog lights installed, which he discovered interfere with many of the air intake kits available for his vehicle. So, rather than spending hours searching for an intake he brought his xB to us so we could fabricate him a custom intake that would work with the space he had after installing the JDM fog lights.
August 24, 2009
The owner of this ’08 STi had his original motor let go on him while at the track. As a racing enthusiast, rather than going back to the dealership and trying to get the motor covered under warranty he decided to step up his game and take this car to the next level.
The stock block was tossed in favor of a Raw Performance Street Series Block. The Street Series Block includes forged CP Pistons with high performance rings, STi forged rods, and a STi forged crankshaft. The forged pistons in this block offer greater strength than the original cast pistons the STi comes equipped with. The new motor was assembled using stock heads for now, although our customer is probably going to have some head work done in the future.
The owner of the vehicle chose to run the P&L rotated mount turbo kit. At the heart of this kit is a GT35r with an .82 a/r hot side housing. Due to the larger turbo, the stock top mount was replaced with a larger TurboXS unit. Some of the additional supporting mods include upgrading to a TiAL 44mm wastegate, HKS SSQV blow off valve, Deatsch Werks 850cc injectors, a Walbro 255lph fuel pump, Perrin equal length manifold, a custom oil catch can, and a South Bend FE Series clutch.
The car put down 388whp on our dyno running 93 octane. (Dyno Chart coming soon!)
August 21, 2009
Here’s a car you don’t see around too much anymore. The owner of this Dodge Stealth R/T has been working on this project for the last few years. One out of the many modifications he made was to switch from the original twin turbo setup to a single big turbo.
To go along with the larger single turbo, he wanted a 4-inch custom turbo-back exhaust. After some strategic planning, we were able to fabricate and fit a full turbo-back 4 inch exhaust under the car, without it hanging too low, or being too close to the drive shaft. This exhaust is one of a kind, and certainly a nice showpiece. It was constructed so all the joints are v-band connections. The cat was installed with v-bands as well, so that our customer may easily remove the cat and install the test pipe we fabricated for him when he goes to the track.
The owner still has some things left on his sheet of modifications to wrap up, and we can’t wait to see the car when it is 100% done!
August 19, 2009
Here is a quick turbo inlet we made for a SR swapped 240sx. Per the customers request we reused his old air filter and silicone couplers, Dan fabricated and welded the aluminum tubing.
July 30, 2009
This 05 STi has a fair amount of work done and is a pretty quick car. Some of the highlights are listed below.
GT30R .82 turbo
100% H2O Injection
Forged Weisco Pistons
Modified STi Crank
New Bearings
816cc Modified Injectors
255lph Walboro Fuel Pump
Full Exhaust
ACT Clutch and Flywheel
Perrin Fuel Rails
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Tuned with Ecutek and UTEC management
Tune was with unleaded 100 octane fuel per request of the customer
July 28, 2009
This ’08 Scion tC was previously in our shop when the customer had us switch out his TRD supercharger setup to a Dezod turbo kit. This time around the owner brought the vehicle back for some additional power upgrades as well as some upgrades to his automatic transmission.
After the turbo kit was installed the owner noticed the car would get hung up in first and second gear during wide-open pulls. Having already installed a B&M transmission cooler, he decided the next step was to upgrade the valve body. By upgrading to an IPT valve body, the transmission now shifts quicker, more precise and no longer gets hung up in gear.
To try and extract more power from his turbo kit, the owner upgraded from his log style manifold to an equal length turbo manifold. The equal length manifold has better flow characteristics allowing the turbo to spool faster.
With the installation of the new manifold, we had to fabricate new intercooler pipes since the turbo was relocated. Since we had to fabricate new intercooler pipes we switched the car over to a blow-thru MAF sensor. The blow-thru MAF allowed us to put the sensor behind the blow off valve on the cold side of his intercooler piping. The benefit of this setup is that we did not need to run piping from the air filter onto the inlet of the turbo. We were able to mount the filter directly on the turbo inlet, which saves room in this cars cramped engine bay, and in this case, the setup also ended up saving our customer some money since it cut down on some of the fabrication time and components. However, we did fabricate a inlet pipe for his turbo, just so we could try and get the filter away from the hot ambient air next to the manifold. He does always have the option to just stick a filter on it though.
After all the work was finished, the car was put back on the dyno for tuning where it put down 258 whp and 235 ft. lbs.
The mods proved to make a really fun and enjoyable street car, that can also put down some decent numbers at the track.
Not one to be satisfied, our customer is already thinking of future modifications, including a fully built engine and trans along with a GT3076R! We’ll keep you posted…
Here are the modifications that were done this time around:
Turbo Toyotas Equal Length Manifold
Turbo Toyotas Slim Radiator Fans
Verocious Custom Aluminum Intercooler Piping
Blow-Thru MAF
Verocious Custom 3” downpipe and 3” V-band exhaust
Verocious Custom Wastegate Dump Tube
Custom Vibrant Oil Catch Can Setup
Tial Q 50mm Blow off Valve
IPT Valve Body Upgrade
Tuned by Verocious
July 24, 2009
After a new clutch has been installed, you should make sure you take the time to properly break it in. Whether you installed a factory replacement or an upgraded clutch, by taking the time to do a proper break in you will maximize its life span, and performance characteristics.
At Verocious, we recommend a 500-mile minimum break in period. During these first 500 miles you should try not to rev the engine above 4500 rpm’s. This will ensure that your clutch is heated up slowly. During the break in period do not perform any hard drag race style launches or put your vehicle on a dyno for baselines or for tuning. Also, do not boost the car (if applicable) above 12 psi.
In order for the clutch to be broken in properly you will need to use it as much as possible. Driving on the highway in top gear for 500 miles will not break in your new clutch. Ideally, the best place to break in your new clutch is driving around town, or on roads where there is stop and go traffic. These driving situations will allow the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch to mate nicely because of the continued use.
Depending on your driving habits and routines you will need to adjust your break in time accordingly. For example, if you drive your car everyday to commute to work, and there is relatively little shifting involved, your new clutch may need longer than 500 miles to fully break in. Opposite of that, if you drive in heavy stop and go traffic everyday, your clutch will most likely be broken in after the 500 mile period.
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